Misty Melbourne



Visiting Melbourne in February 2016, I took in a show at the Victoria State Theatre, North by Northwest.  While collecting my tickets, I saw the following advertised: a production of Wagner's Der Ring des Nibelungen that would be put on in November and December of the same year.  It didn't take long to decide, and as soon as I was earning money again, I paid for the flight, the opera tickets and accommodation.  Then it was just a waiting game.  I did have to request time off work, which is not normally allowed during semester, but as soon as I'd signed my contract, I put in the request, leaving four months of notice.

The date gradually came around, and I boarded my Cathay Pacific flight.  I was not going to travel with a budget airline this time, after my shocked experience ten months ago.  Boarding, our bags were checked a second time right on the ramp leading into the aircraft.  This is uncommon (though it has happened to me before).  I guess they might have been looking for Samsung Galaxy Note 7 devices, which have been banned by many airlines.

Eventually, I entered the craft.  This is quite likely the narrowest tube I've ever been on.  I could barely fit down the aisle.  Arriving in Melbourne hours later, the first announcement at the airport was made in Mandarin and no other language!  Had I left Taiwan at all?  Exiting the arrivals hall, the taxi driver I hailed was annoyed with me because I was only going a short distance.  (I'd deliberately booked my first night nearby as I was arriving late.)  He surmised that I'd been rejected by other drivers who refused to take such a short fare.  I objected vehemently.  He relented and drove me.  On the way, I was certain I could smell beetle nut on his breath.  Again, where was I?


The room was comfortable if plain.  I was in bed soon.  Next morning, my cuz, Steph, came to pick me up.  It was great to see her, though it had only been ten months.  She drove me into the city, taking me to get a SIM card and connection to the net.  How dependent we've become on these little genius devices!  We also took a walk through the State Library of Victoria. 
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Then we scoffed down delicious gyros at Stalactites.  Finally, it was time for me to check in at the new place.  We returned to where the car was parked and drove.  I'd find out later that Stalactites is very close to where I was staying.

At the new address, I was unable to get into the lock box to retrieve the keys.  Quan had given me the secret pin, but the lock box was jammed.  He came without delay to let me in. What a lovely place I'd chosen!  The decor was modern and warm, the kitchen well-equipped and there was a washer in the bathroom.  Not only that, but it was also super central (within the free-tram zone) and secure.  The bed was comfortable and the bedding snug; there was even an international electric adaptor.

Steph left shortly after I was in.  I went out to buy food, and then I called it a day.

On Monday it was time to venture forth.   Though I'd been here just ten months ago, there were many sights I didn't get to see on that trip.  I was determined to make up for that on this visit.  Stepping out, I headed for the tram stop.  So accustomed to driving on the right, I waited on the wrong side of the tram rails.  Today I'd have my first personal encounter with those pesky Australian flies. They don't seem at all perturbed by waving of hands; they just keep coming at your face!


I bought a few odds and ends and then headed to the State Theatre.  I had a knotty matter to work out, and I'll return to it by and by in the post about the Ring Cycle.  Later, I met Antice for lunch.  She is the ex-girlfriend of a colleague, studying now in Melbourne to further her teaching career in native Taiwan, and it was great to see her.  Then I went back to the accommodation to get out of the 30° heat.  (I found out the next day that it was in fact over 34°, but it was nevertheless much more comfortable than the same mercury reading in Taiwan.)  Soon it was time to head to the theatre for the first performance, Das Rheingold.  I decided to walk.  Dark rain clouds began gathering, but there was no let up to the heat.  As I approached the venue, it started to rain in earnest.  I made it!

After the show, I walked back across the Yarra River, determined to save every penny possible on the trip (it had cost so much already) - the theatre is a single stop outside the free-tram zone.

(More than three years after this trip, I stumbled by accident upon a marvelous piece of useless information.  This bridge in the foreground, the Princess Bridge, that I would cross on each visit to the theatre and on many other occasions, was designed by John Grainger, father of Percy Grainger.  Later in this account, I will lead you into a museum in honour of the younger Grainger.  Here is another picture I took of the same bridge.)

On Tuesday I woke at 7:30, despite only slumbering after 1am.  Today it was cold, reminiscent of Iceland.  Luckily I had my thin yet mostly windproof and water resistant jacket bought at Hagkaup in Reykjavik.  The line on the thermometer had dropped by more than half. Today was 14°C!


Favoring my left leg (there is something going wrong in my right knee), I set off in the direction of Abbotsford Convent. 
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The Lonely Planet had described it as a former convent, one from which the clerics had departed.  It is now home to "a thriving arts community of galleries, studios, cafes and bars." (Lonely Planet, Melbourne & Victoria, 2014, p62)  Walking from Victoria Park Station,  I passed through a tired neighbourhood;  many shops closed. Perhaps it was still too early.  This gave way to a rustic, tree-lined suburb, and I imagined I was heading to Nienke's studio at Montebello in Newlands, Cape Town, with its promise of interesting, fresh arts and crafts.

The reality was rather less impressive.  Only one of two cafes was open, I saw no artists at work, and the only exhibition hall I found was closed for reinstallation.  There was, however, a small exhibition space beside the open cafe.  Riding the train back into the city, I marveled at how much the suburban setting reminded me of the Cape Town suburb of Rosebank - little houses packed tightly together with miniature gardens and ornate iron fences.


Next I made for Gertrude Street and her surroundings.  Starting at the western end and walking east, I stopped in at Alcaston Gallery.  This was small and the staff was taking down an exhibition.  Still, I got to see a bit, and some of it was aboriginal.  I liked it.  Further on, I ambled into Gertrude Contemporary Art Space.  This was also small and also interesting.  Down the bottom end of Gertrude St was the best I'd seen so far, at the Australian Galleries.  
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There were some very thought-provoking works.  Across the street at Australian Galleries Stock Room the staff was also taking down the exhibition.  Here, nevertheless, I saw something similar to African 3D artwork.  (The first picture is what I saw today.  The second picture is an example of the African art - this one was made by my mother.)







Now I headed back west, to the Ian Potter Museum of Art.  This stood within the grounds of the Melbourne University, but its entrance was located on an outer road. The venue was much larger and the displays very good. 
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At the other end of the university, also accessed from an outer road, was the Grainger Museum.  Percy Grainger is conceivably Australia's most famous composer of classical music.  Naturally, I was intensely interested in its contents.  There were some photographs, and he had strikingly good features.  Other than composing, he also invented instruments capable of producing smaller intervals than traditional Western instruments.  Some of his inventions were on display, and visitors were encouraged to operate them.  I wasn't in the mood.  What astonished me was the revelation of his sexual deviance, though it seems he was unperturbed that the public knew.  He liked to be whipped and owned a whole collection of whips.  His wife accepted this and even gifted him a whip as a wedding present!
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Returning to my accommodation, I walked by Her Majesty's Theatre and saw that a production of Kinky Boots was running throughout my stay.  I'd heard one very good report about this show from George, who joined me for a few days in Sydney in January and who accompanied me to the Sydney Opera House to see The Pearlfishers.  I was more than eager to buy a ticket, but like everything down-under, theatre tickets do not come cheaply, and I decided taking in another show would simply be too wanton.  Instead, I headed home, did laundry and rested in warmth and comfort.  Among the entertainments on offer in the room was a TV show called Broadchurch, a British crime drama.  It was riveting, and I watched two entire seasons during my stay.  That night I had the best sleep since arriving.

On Wednesday, I made an early start. I went west from Exhibition Street as far as Swanston St, turned left and continued to the Yarra River.  Then I turned left again and followed the river to where I knew I'd find the Federation Bells.  By the time I got there, I realised that I was back at Exhibition Street!  I'd wound my way around sixteen city blocks, where I might simply have ambled straight down Exhibition Street to the river.  Never mind, a little exercise didn't hurt.  I stayed for a while to enjoy the specially-composed music, and then it started raining again.  Remembering that I hadn't taken my morning meds, I headed back home to do so.


Next I made my way to the Docklands, which lie west of the CBD, beyond Southern Cross Station and Etihad Stadium.  The neighbourhood was glassy-modern, neat and spotless.  It was beautiful.  However, there was almost nobody walking around, and it was unexciting.  I guess I'd been expecting something like the Waterfront in Cape Town or Circular Quay in Sydney, both of which are bustling.  Back in the CBD, I wandered into St Paul's Cathedral.  Here visitors have to pay to be allowed to take pictures.  I did, before returning home again.  
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En route, a fight broke out on the tram I was taking.  I'd been vaguely aware of the pair when I got on.  I heard conversation, but when I'd looked over in their direction, they were seated, facing away from each other and for a moment I thought the man had been talking on his phone.  As we approached my stop and I stood to alight, the woman stood and walked up to the man, a menacing look in her eyes.  "Pay me!" she hissed, and then started pushing the man around.  She seemed quite strong and her physique dwarfed the man's.  Was she a drag queen?  Had he just bought drugs from her, or slept with her and was now refusing to hand over the dough?  The tram stopped and the doors opened and I exited.  "Get out!" I heard the tram driver yell and then repeat as I scurried off at a purposeful hobble.

I dropped some purchases in the room, took a shower and then made my way to the Victoria Parliament and Old Treasury Buildings.  As soon as I arrived, I wondered, "What am I doing here?"  Abruptly disinterested, I shuffled on to Tolarno Galleries.  There was a single exhibition by a single artist showing a total of eight pieces.  It was not my cup of tea.  Next, I entered the Anna Schwartz Gallery.  Twice Lourens and I had tried unsuccessfully to gain access in February.  Now the door was open.  In a single room stood a single piece, but it was spectacular!  This picture does not do it justice - the 3D aspect was much more pronounced.  Loved it!

It was time to head to the theatre for tonight's opera, Die Walküre.  The entire day had been rainy,  windy and miserably cold, even for me, although I guess I'd have been alright if I'd packed wintry clothes.  Exiting at first interval, the rain was gone and the sun was shining.  There was however not much difference in the temperature.  Many patrons were seated in the theatre lobby, dinners on their laps.  It all looked rather ghetto save the extravagant garments and plush furnishings.  This theatre is completely submerged.  The ground level is in fact level 6. The box office is on level 5, and entrance to the stalls is on level 3! A variety of members' lounges and restaurants are above it all on levels 7 and 8, the only levels above ground.

On Thursday morning, I took a walk to Fitzroy to meet Anna.
 Australian, she lived in Taiwan over ten years ago, and I visited her when I came in 2007, but had been unable to get in contact ten months ago.  (As it turned out, she was in Peru at the time, anyway.)  I was early so thought I'd save tram fare.  We had a lovely vegetarian lunch and a lively catch up.  It was excellent to see her after eight years.  She had actually left Melbourne and was living near Victoria's border with New South Wales.  By happy accident, she'd already planned to take a trip into the city to run some errands.  Lucky me!

After lunch, I wandered through a few stores in search of Christmas gifts.  Hmmm what to get?  I was soon beat. Supermarket. Home.  The warm bed and Broadchurch kept me in for the rest of the day. (As has become my habit, I ate almost exclusively from supermarkets, though I did have some Subway salads, one visit to Nando's and a single helping of Hungry Jack's.  All three franchises sprout like grass throughout the city.  Google Maps lists 19 Subways, 10 Nando's and 6 Hungry Jack's within or very near the CBD.)  

On Friday morning, I texted Helga, Steph's mom and my first cousin.  We'd made plans to meet at Tante Erna's (her mom, my dad's sister).  I didn't want to wait for a response, so I boarded a tram in the direction of Richmond and the Charles Nodrum Gallery.
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 Just as I arrived, Helga called. Since I was just outside, I wasn't going to miss the gallery, so I entered.  It was super SUPER!   Back to Flinders Street Station.  Train to St Albans.  On foot to Harmon Avenue, but Helga met me en route and drove me rest of the way. Steph was there, too.  It was a happy reunion, but all too soon, I had to head back to the theatre for Siegfried.  Exiting after the show, the streets were buzzing.


On Saturday my only order of business was getting gifts and an assortment of toiletries that aren't available in Taiwan.  I dropped them home, then decided to go to the National Gallery of Victoria.  Having misjudged the trams, I was easily defeated; and it was cold.  I traipsed to Coles to get lunch and dinner, then home. Ahhh!




Sunday was equally unhurried.   I was up in time to get a SkyBus ticket to the airport for Tuesday. Then I returned to St Albans.  Tante Erna, Onkel Hans and I had lunch at a Chinese buffet.  I was at once happy to be eating familiar food and annoyed that I wasn't trying something exotic.  At least there were also roast meats and Dauphinoise potatoes, both perpetually absent in Taiwan.  Around 4:30, I caught a train back into the city, got my supplies for the evening and returned home.  At 10:30pm, I suddenly scolded myself for laying about, forced myself out the door.  Melbourne was a-buzz.  Within minutes I realized I was exhausted and returned home. 


On Monday, I rose early. I packed my suitcase, took out trash and washed up.  Then I headed to the Melbourne Museum.  I'd been here in February, but the visit had been cut short.  Then I noticed that the entrance fee was steeper than I'd expected.  I'd slowly grown annoyed with the entire nation for the exorbitant prices attached to every damn thing, so like a petulant child, I refused to enter.
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The rest of the day continued in this thwarted vein.  I had three hours before checking in at the next accommodation.  (I'd had to make emergency arrangements due to factors described in the post Der Ring des Nibelungen - Overview.)  Not wanting to drag my suitcase around, I'd located a tourist help centre at Flinders Street Station where bags could be left for a few hours.  Arriving there, I was told their lockers were full.  They suggested Southern Cross Station.  There I did find a locker.  Good. 

I'd planned to meet with Antice for a second time.  Exiting now, the trams were slow to arrive and packed like sardine cans.  I opted to walk.  The result was that once we hooked up, I had 30 minutes for lunch!  Leaving her at Melbourne Central Station, I couldn't make out how to return to Southern Cross.  Asking for help, I missed the train I needed.  The next one was seven minutes out.  Two o'clock was fast approaching, and that's when I'd agreed to check in.  (This is the down side of AirBnB.  You have to come to an arrangement with the host regarding check in, as they're all private homes.  The advantages are great - great locations, low costs, laundry facilities - if you check first - and the list goes on.)

To get my suitcase, I had to ride to Melbourne North and change.  The clock was ticking.  I told Le I might be late, and she graciously offered to leave the key in her mail box.  When I got there, however, she was still in the building, and I was happy to meet her.  I dropped my luggage, took a shower, and walked to the National Gallery of Victoria, which stands just beside the National Theatre, convenient for attending the last opera.  I was happy I'd finally get to see some more art.  Except that it took about 40 minutes to walk there, just in time to put my bag in the cloakroom and enter the theatre! 

After the show, I got about four hours' sleep, then hopped on the Sky Bus to the airport.  I was early and therefore second in line to check in.  Then the waiting game started.  I HATE flying on budget airlines.  (I'd had no choice - this was the only way I could enjoy the last act of the opera.  See the post Der Ring des Nibelungen.)  The flight to Kuala Lumpur was uneventful.  There is no entertainment without paying for it, but I luckily had the task of finishing my description of Götterdämmerung.  I tried at some point to use my credit card to buy a drink, but the crew member told me the device couldn't read my card.  Bloody budget!  Literally two seconds before touchdown, some imbecile stood up! 

Landing in Kuala Lumpur there was not much time.  Following the others, I went through the security check, being sure to first empty my bottle and place the empty vessel visibly.  Then I filled it with water.  Heading to the gate, I had to pass through another security check, where they confiscated my water.  To add insult to injury, all vendors on the other side sold water in only flimsy plastic cups with flimsy lids.  I was now without water or vessel.  I was now livid.  I decided that this would be the last time I fly budget and the last time I fly through Kuala Lumpur.

On the plane to Taipei, during taxi, there was a knocking sound at the right rear of the plane.  I'd never heard that before.  As we took off, another sound could be heard by everyone, terrified looks filling faces.  It was like ice rolling down a tray, like a giant rainstick reverberating above our heads.  It went on for a while, but then it ceased.  At times like that, I always look at the attendants.  If they're calm, I stay calm.  On this flight they accepted my Taiwan dollars and I ate something and had a drink or four.  The crew member waited for me to start eating before she told me that change can only be given in Malaysian ringit!  Blast it!  (My bank would not take it, either.)

Thankfully, disembarking in Taipei, my luggage was among the first on the carousel.  More thankfully, I was in time for a bus.  (Buses stop running to Taichung over night.)  Nevertheless, I arrived home late and took another morning off work.  More money!

So these rantings in the last few paragraphs paint a tortured picture.  I get over things very quickly, and in all, I had a wonderful break.  Much needed, too.

Scrapbook

I would never have believed that I'd one day stand accused of scrapbooking, nor indeed get found guilty.  Yet, here I stand.  Sadly, I had to fold the program notes as the only place I had to store them was in my shirt pocket.






Der Ring des Nibelungen





Click on the differently coloured words to see pictures of this production.  Some seem to have been taken in 2013, others are from 2016. 

Vorabend: Das Rheingold

Scene One.  Curtains rise over gentle music to a mirror suspended over the stage at an angle that points both to the audience and to the stage floor. It is constructed of mirrored blocks which slightly distort the reflection.  At first I think it is a moving image projected onto a screen, but as the lights gradually brighten,  it becomes apparent that we are seeing prostrate figures steadily becoming animated and squirming about.  Then it dawns on me that the opening scene is set in the depths of the Rhine, where the Rhinemaidens, under the instruction of their father, protect their hoard of gold. What we are seeing is a human portrayal of the fish. Ingenious!

The fish become livelier,  and poke their heads out of the water like playful dolphins taking in the lay of the land.... oops, the waterway.  A few minutes later,  they are all up and darting around the revolving stage. Paying homage to and strengthening the image of their watery home, the dancers are all wearing swimming trunks. (Some of them are muscularly magnetic.) Enter the Rhinemaidens,  who are oddly dressed as burlesque dancers, complete with white feather headdresses and tufted tails. 

Enter Alberich, the Nibelung, a creature from the Underworld, arriving fully clothed but soon removing garments right down to his hideous white underwear, in an attempt to lure the Rhinemaidens into an amorous encounter. The maidens tease him, poking fun at his grotesque appearance. All the while, as he chases and they scurry, the fish in the river swish this way and that, appearing in the mirrored ceiling like a genuine shoal escaping danger (an image for which we thank National Geographic and the BBC).

The maidens become too bold and dare to show him their shimmering stones.  Now the shoal raise their golden pompoms. The stage lighting shifts to orange and the pompoms glisten, while the shaking of them produces the sound of coins being poured out of a giant sack. Alberich continues to woo them, but ultimately grows angry at their taunts.  The maidens tell how the gold can be fashioned into a ring whose power will subjugate the whole world to its owner.  However,  only he who rebukes love can mould it.

Enraged by the maidens refusal and insults, and overcome with greed and lust for power, Alberich swears off love and shoots into the gold-carrying shoal in a frenzy until he entraps a weakling (played by a pretty blond girl of about 12). Magnetized, the entire shoal is dragged away triumphantly by the thieving dwarf (Alberich,  the Nibelung), as the maidens lament their folly and loss.

Scene Two. The mirrored ceiling lowers and changes angle so the back is now higher while the front rests on the stage. What we see is the marbled floor of the gods' castle while lavish decorations (stuffed predators and exotic prey - all HUGE) are lowered onto said floor. Wotan, the god of the
gods, is being reprimanded by his wife, Fricka,  for offering her sister Freie to the giants as payment for building their castle. Enter the bass and baritone giants, Fasolt and Fafner (each on a crane of the city cable guy variety).  They demand their payment,  while Wotan attempts to delay until Loge returns. 

Loge is the cunning one, himself not a god, but risen through service to be treated as an associate and advisor. Loge eventually returns with news of Alberich's hoard and the world-enslaving ring. But he is unable to persuade the giants to exchange Freie for the promise of gold that Loge has yet to steal. As the giants drag Freie away, the marbled floor flips again, exposing the mirrored ceiling. 

Scene Three. Now the stage beneath is not revolving,  but trapdoors have been opened and light is streaming out from them, striking the mirror in showers of dazzling white. Within the trapdoors, white ladders are visible,  distorted once again by the squares of mirrors. Soon, Nibelungen (German plural) start shimmying out of them, and they are revealed as the tunnels of Alberich's gold mines. The Nibelungen have been subjugated and toil at Alberich's pleasure (and punishment). 

Mime, Alberich's brother (whom the mean dwarf has also enslaved) has fashioned a Tarnhelm for Alberich. This is a golden ring large enough to be worn as a crown and with the power to change Alberich into any figure he likes. He puts it on. Enter on stage a 1920s style magician pair, lady in pink burlesque outfit and man in tails and a top hat. They wheel on a magician's box covered in BLING of awful taste and aptly named 'Tarnhelm'.  Alberich gets in and abracadabra, he disappears. However,  his commanding bass-baritone can still be heard, and he beats up Mime and terrifies the Nibelungen slaves.

(I've seen Das Rheingold twice before on TV and the whole cycle once on DVD. One thing about it that detracts from my enjoyment is that Wagner didn't include chorus, nor are there ever many people on the stage. This Rheingold made up for that with the silent shoal and the Nibelungen slaves, who were also silent except when they shrieked in abysmal fear of Alberich,  three sudden, crescendoing, frenzied screeches as they scurried away from the dwarf.)

Wotan and Loge arrive. They disbelieve Alberich's tale of the Tarnhelm and ask for proof.  Enter once more the magical duo. He turns himself into a snake, carried by a go-go girl (Melbourne's own comedic twist). The adversaries then taunt him, saying he couldn't turn himself into something small. Glad to prove them wrong, when the Tarnhelm opens, a toad sits on a chair. Wotan and Loge bind him and steal his hoard, his ring and his tarnhelm.

Scene Four. Now in an undisclosed location. The stage floor is black, the ceiling has been lifted away, the back of the stage is black, too. Wotan convinces the giants to accept the trade: Freie for the gold. Either Fasolt or Fafner (I couldn't figure out which; they were both dressed in Men-in-Black style FBI suits!!!) struggles to let go of the beautiful Freie and commands his opponents to surround her erect figure with the gold. Only if he is unable to see her will the amount of gold suffice.  As Freie disappears from the audience's view within a tower of shimmering gold bars, the giant grows sadder. When all the gold has been piled, he nevertheless catches a glimpse of her beautiful eye through a crack and demands the ring to plug it.

Wotan is adamant it belongs to him. Suddenly,  from within the blackened posterior a door bursts open,  spilling brilliant light across the stage. Enter Erda, the goddess of the Earth. She warns Wotan that the curse of the ring (placed on it by Alberich after he was forced to relinquish it) shall destroy the gods. Wotan begrudgingly hands it over.  Erda exits through the same door, pulling it shut, plunging the depths of the stage once more into desolate darkness.  Just then, Fafner kills Fasolt and claims all the gold for himself.

After relinquishing the ring, the gods are surrounded by a troupe of burlesque dancers in pastel colors, carrying a matching feather fan in each hand. They prance around in typical cabaret fashion as Wotan announces that their new home shall be named Valhalla.  The back of the stage is lit to reveal an endless staircase leading up. The cabaret girls swish up it into a cone shape,  narrow at the bottom,  broadening to the top. Through this cone, the gods ascend into Valhalla,  first Wotan and Fricka, followed by Freie, Donner and the other brother, Froh.

Curtain drops.

There is lengthy, excited, whoop whoop-calling applause at the end. The show has been magnificent !

The choice of costumes to my mind is questionable.  All characters are dressed in fashion of the 2010s. Fricka's brother, Donner, god of thunder, carries a gun instead of a hammer!!  

The music is brilliant,  the acoustics great, except that at some powerful moments,  the soloist echoes. That shouldn't happen!?!




Erste Tag: Die Walküre


Act One - The curtain rises to a revolving stage, upon which stands a wooden shack. The shack is shuttered and shut, protecting itself and its inhabitants as snow falls from the 'heavens', piling up on the roof and stage around. After the second revolution,  the back wall (which faces the audience) has been removed and Sieglinde sits quietly by herself.  The snow continues to fall throughout the act, but now only on either side of the shack. The stage ceases revolving. Enter a wounded traveler,  a Wälsung, a mortal. He has been fighting adversaries and has lost his shield and sword. Exhausted,  he pleads for refuge. Sieglinde obliges, and gives him a drink. The pair become enamored with one another and recognise a glint in each other's eyes.

Sieglinde's husband Hunding arrives home,  entering through the shack's front door, which is at the back in relation to the audience. Not only is he sexy, his thunderous bass is hot as hell. He listens to his wife's explanation and welcomes the traveler. He asks why the Wälsung is wounded.  The Wälsung describes how he stumbled upon a forced wedding,  and how he slew all the men guilty of entrapping the bride. Hunding declares that those were his kin. He welcomes the Wälsung to a safe night to honor the code of harboring travelers. But in the morning,  he says, he and the Wälsung will duel.

Sieglinde drugs Hunding to make him sleep, and then comes to tell the Wälsung where he can find a sword. The sword was stabbed into a tree by a powerful man, her father, and only a true hero will be capable of retrieving it. Sieglinde dubs the traveler Siegmund, thereby bestowing honor. (Sieg means victory in German.) Slowly the pair, who are in fact twins separated at birth,  fall in love. They swear allegiance to one another.

Siegmund wrests the sword from its seat. He names it Nothung. The music crescendos and the texture fills. The conductor's young, handsome head is tossing about ferociously.  The lights go out suddenly.  The audience goes wild.

The costumes now are a little more palatable.  Sieglinde looks like a country maiden.  Hunding resembles a Russian peasant.  Wälsung/ Siegmund looks hard-traveled.  The music is so gentle that I annoyingly nod off from time to time. Knew I should have napped!

Reentering the theatre on time like a good little boy, an announcement heralds that there's been a technical issue.  Act Two will start at 8pm, instead of 7:20, as planned. 

Act Two - The curtain rises. Standing on the revolving stage is a spiral ramp not unlike those at multi-storeyed car parks. This one might fit three characters side-by-side. The spiral ascends in four loops right into the top of the stage, and with the lighting it appears to be made of white marble. The ramp surrounds a large vacant cylinder.  The first to come down are Siegmund and Sieglinde,  running to escape the inevitable wrath of Hunding. They exit at back left. Next arrive Wotan and Brünnhilde.  He is dressed as before in black trousers, a white shirt and brown cloak. Brünnhilde is dressed like a casual horse rider or a lesbian potter. She's wearing brown boots, brown corduroy (?) slacks, a T-shirt and a long sleeved, unbuttoned shirt with the sleeves rolled up. As they descend, so too do the stuffed animals from before. This time there are way more, they are hung at various heights and depths on stage, and they completely fill the cylinder formed by the ramp. Wotan commands his daughter Brünnhilde, the Valkyrie, to ensure Siegmund's victory.  (The Valkyries are an order of female knights, I guess, whose main task is to rescue the souls of fallen heroes and bring them to Valhalla for eternal glory.)

In walks Fricka. She is also in the same beige 1940s secretary dress (I was mistaken before) she wore two nights ago. She once again admonishes  Wotan for his poor choices. As guardian of wedlock, she expects Siegmund to fall in the ensuing battle. It comes to light that it was indeed Wotan who left the sword for Siegmund because he has other things up his sleeve. Fricka insists that he defend her honour. Wotan relents and countermands Brünnhilde to let the adulterer perish. Exit Fricka.

Now a torrent of admissions spill from Wotan's lips onto Brünnhilde's ears. In the time since Das Rheingold,  Wotan has wondered the Earth. He sought out Erda in an attempt to understand everything.  He has seduced her and Brunhilde and her eight Valkyrie sisters are the product of that. (Fricka is aware of this transgression and this is why she is adamant that he restore her honour.) Not only that, but Wotan also seduced a Wälsung woman,  thereby fathering Siegmund and his twin Sieglinde. Since Wotan is forbidden by his own treaties to rescue the ring and the gold from the giant, his wish is that Siegmund,  who is not bound by the rules of the gods, will win it back.

The gods exit through the ceiling, the stuffed animals following.  Enter Sieglinde and Siegmund,  still running.  Sieglinde has a breakdown,  admonishing herself for her infidelity and incest. She tells Siegmund to leave her. Her powerful soprano is shattering above the orchestra,  her lament heartbreaking.  She slumbers. Enter Brünnhilde. She tells Siegmund that he will fall, and then join the heroes in the halls of Valhalla.  Upon hearing that he will not meet Sieglinde there, he refuses. Brünnhilde agrees to spare Sieglinde,  but Siegmund remains unmoved. Enter Hunding, challenging Siegmund.  Just as it seems Siegmund will prevail, Wotan returns and with his sceptre breaks the spell he placed on Nothung. The sword shatters and Hunding ends Siegmund. Brünnhilde hurries Sieglinde away before  Wotan sees her.

Dramatic climax in the music. Lights out. Audience explodes.

The second interval is again extended by 10 minutes!

Act Three - The stage revolves as seems to be the theme. Our shoal of fish are there, this time depicting soldiers on a battlefield. One by one, nine soldiers fall. Exeunt the remaining army. From the ceiling - where once the ramp disappeared and now only a gaping hole remains - descend upon playground swings first three, then two more, and finally a total of nine Valkyries. Brunhilde is not amongst them. ( I'm dead certain Wotan said Brunhilde had eight sisters, but I count nine.) They sing their famous call from the Ride of the Valkyries, arguably Wagner's most well known section of music. As they vacate their swings, they attach to them the nine fallen heroes, who are slowly raised and disappear into Valhalla through the gaping hole in the ceiling.

Now the stage is sadly bland all the way to the end of the opera. Brünnhilde rides in on her horse (that's what the libretto describes,  but actually she enters from back right - as the audience sees it.) She has Sieglinde,  and while the adulteress says she'd rather be dead because Siegmund is, Brünnhilde announces that Sieglinde is pregnant with a hero's child. Gradually she wants to live again. 

Brünnhilde asks her sisters to protect her from Wotan's wrath, but upon hearing of her betrayal,  they refuse. However,  when Wotan does arrive,  they do in fact hide her. Wotan prevails and banishes Brünnhilde from Valhalla. He also removes her immortality and puts her to sleep.  The first man to kiss her will wake her and she will marry him. Brünnhilde convinces Wotan to surround her slumbering body by a ring of fire so that only a true hero can reach her. He agrees. The farewell is agonizing,  and then Wotan puts her to sleep. A genuine ring of fire ignites around her before our eyes. I'd so been hoping for that.

This time,  the orchestral close is subdued and nostalgic. Curtain drops. Despite the production taking 7 hours instead of 5 hrs 40 mins, most of the audience sits through bow after bow and cheers heartily, I among them.





Tweiter Tag: Siegfried


Since Die Walküre, things have transpired. Sieglinde is entrusted to Mime, brother of Alberich and fashioner of the Tarnhelm. She dies in child birth, delivering Siegfried.  It's never really resolved whether or not Mime killed her (or am I getting my lines crossed with a TV show). Mime also has Siegmund's shattered sword.

Act One - Curtain rises. The stage is shallow,  extending only a little way beyond the orchestra pit.  The back and side walls are white.  We are in Mime and Siegfried's dwelling. The left half is Mime's workshop. There's a fridge,  a TV (old tube style with the thick back) and a microwave oven. A variety of tools and equipment is stacked about.  There's a large blue barrel, the type that Mexican drug lords frequently use in movies to dispose of informants and other random enemies.  In it is a broom, bristles in the air, and other assorted sticks. Closer to the audience stands a crank in a yellow casing, attached via a tube to something silver-shiny that will be revealed as the sword smith's furnace. There is what appears to be a cylinder of compressed air,  tall, thin and tan-burnt-orange. Mime wears white sneakers,  blue jeans, a horizontally striped shirt and an apron that matches the color of the cylinder. Behind it all, on the wall hangs a piece of modern art.

The other half of the stage,  separated by a small, colored, transparent screen,  is Siegfried's bedroom. There's a striped two-man sofa and a double bunk. On the wall above the top bed, glue tacked to the wall, are childlike drawings of animals. Siegfried wears brown sneakers, matching jeans and a maroon long sleeved wintry T-shirt.

Mime bemoans his life of servitude to Siegfried, whose only repayment is a barrage of insults and slights. Siegfried mocks Mime for being unable to smelt the leftover bits of Nothung and fashion a new powerful sword. Siegfried storms out. 

Enter Wotan, disguised as a Wanderer. He's dressed as before except that he's wearing sunglasses(!) and his long hair is loose. The vision resembles Dumbledore.  His sceptre too, right from the Das Rheingold, is gnarled and imperfect.  Mime wishes him away, but Wotan insists on hospitality. He offers his head if he can't answer three questions. The foolish dwarf asks first who dwells in the Underworld (Nibelungen), second who dwells on the surface (Giants) and third who dwells in the clouds (Gods). Wotan berates Mime for asking questions to which he knew the answers, while he failed to ask what he needed to know (how he might fashion the sword,  Nothung). Exit Wotan.

Mime hammers at a new weapon. Smashing the hammer on the anvil on stage is rhythmic and forms an intended  part of the percussion. Siegfried returns and breaks the new sword over his knee. He then curses Mime,  grabs Nothung's splinters and on stage fashions a new blade. He turns the crank, which feeds the bellows (the pipe), which cause the coals to burn in what appears to be a real BBQ/furnace. The blade turns hot-orange, he hammers (rhythmically, part of percussion), cools it in water from which escapes (genuine?) steam, heats, hammers, cools. Then he attaches the hilt. Triumphant,  he threatens Mime, then cuts a hole in the back wall to boast the magnitude of his achievement. 

Act Two - As the overture plays, we are treated to a display of genius,  a depiction of the dragon  (Fafner, who converted himself using the Tarnhelm). We see on the curtain before it rises, a projection of the actor's face, so large it covers all four storeys of fabric.  The curtain rises. 

What had been the back wall of Siegfried & Mime's dwelling has moved deeper onto stage. It stands now across stage centre, and we'll see later that its supporting columns fit snugly on the revolving part of the stage. The projection now falls on this wall. The actor has his back to the audience. He sits in front of a dresser, slightly left of centre stage. We get to watch as he pulls hideous faces. Despite the grotesque expressions, he is scrumptiously handsome,  muscularly shirtless(It is only after rereading the program notes that I discover both Fafner and Hunding are played by the same actor.)

 The hole cut earlier by Siegfried is now circular and large. It roughly matches the position of the dragon's mouth. The dragon slowly applies stage makeup. Circus-clown-zombie white is smeared all over, except for the eyes, which get black. Last comes lipstick,  thickly enlarging his lips.

The stage revolves half-way. We see the back of the "wall". Its 3D shape imitates one half of a polystyrene strawberry tray, but this is three storeys high and wider across. The columns and beam are made of scaffolding; a lattice holds the flat bits of the structure (i.e. the wall). Grass on the ground is represented by thousands of tiny squares of green crinkle paper. This is the mouth of the cave in which the dragon lives. Alberich guards the cave.

Enter Wotan. God and Nibelung mistrust one another, but Wotan asserts that Mime is planning to use Siegfried to slay the dragon, then Mime plans to poison Siegfried and steal ring, helm and hoard.  Exit Wotan and Alberich. 

Enter Mime and Siegfried.  Mime explains that he hopes the dragon will teach Siegfried fear. Siegfried is unmoved by the dwarf's words. On the grass he lays down a checkered blanket of autumn yellow-orange and white. A spectacular clarinet solo (started in fact by the oboe, then handed to the flute, before it is surrendered to the clarinet) is heard, representing a songbird trying to communicate with Siegfried.  Siegfried wishes he could understand,  but he doesn't. Now the hero rises, walks to the cave mouth and stabs the dragon in the heart. As he does that, red canon-confetti (like those used at birthday parties) explodes from the cave, signifying blood splatter. The dying dragon comes on stage through the cave mouth, not shirtless, but STARK NAKED!

Siegfried tastes the dragon's blood and instantly understands the songbird. She suddenly personifies and dances onto the stage. That beautiful clarinet solo is now imitated by the soprano. The songbird warns of Mime's treachery.

Enter Mime. He tries to placate Siegfried,  but while Mime thinks he is verbalizing his lies, due to the dragon's blood, both Siegfried and the audience hear his true intent. Mime is slain. Siegfried follows the personified songbird-dancer-soprano in pursuit of Brünnhilde,  the sleeping beauty.

Act Three  - Curtain rises. The back and angled sides of the "wall" have been demolished,  leaving only the columns and connecting beam that supported it. In the middle of the stage, prostrate and writhing, as if in a nightmare, lies Wotan. He rises and the stage stops spinning.

Enter Erda.  She berates Wotan for banishing Brünnhilde and for his many other follies.  She points out his hypocrisy, following the letter of the law in all matters but his own.  Wotan confesses that he no longer cares if the gods are annihilated.  On the contrary, he now wishes it. Exit Erda.

Enter Alberich.  The pair argue over each other's intentions.  Exit Alberich.  Enter Siegfried,  following the personified songbird. Wotan tries to stop him from freeing Brünnhilde,  but Siegfried shatters Wotan's sceptre.  Wotan points to the mountain with the vault of fire that protects the slumbering Brünnhilde. The stage lights brighten and dim unevenly in shades of flame. 

As Siegfried approaches the mountain, from the columns and beam drop shimmering 1980s style casino curtains, the ones with sagging semi-circle loops. They're  golden and sequin in appearance, representing the raging inferno. The stage revolves. Brünnhilde enters in a wooden crypt surrounded by transparent  plastic sheeting. The crypt is on the revolving stage while Siegfried disappears to the back, behind the sequin curtain. When it rises, we see the hero and also Brünnhilde's horse, Grane. It's not a real horse but a life-sized sculpture. 

After braving the flames, Siegfried  bizarrely thinks he's come across a sleeping (male) soldier. He debates, then wakes him. He's shocked when he realizes "Das ist kein Mann". Equally incomprehensible,  upon seeing her lovely womanhood,  Siegfried experiences fear for the first time. She rises from her slumber to the most ethereal music so far.  (The instrumentation and harmonies astonish me, and carry me into the cosmos.) What happens next (though musically outstanding) annoys my sensibilities.  Brünnhilde suddenly starts spouting insanities (in my opinion, as an outside observer). She is tortured that by knowing a man, her virgin purity will be shattered, thereby rendering her worthless not only to herself,  but also to the very man who'd ravage her (and love her dearly - toggle sickening cliché violins). She spouts this nonsense for ages, which means the exquisite music continues longer. Bitter Sweet. In the end, the star-aligned lovers fall into each other's arms and sing a powerful consuming duet. The audience starts clapping before the orchestral coda ends. I wait. The minute the beautiful Finnish conductor's soft silky locks stop bouncing, I'm on my feet, whoop whooping, hands raised high above my head, applauding with the energy required to raise dumbbells.  I'm overwhelmed.  I'm out of breath. I'm spent. And now I'm hoarse....

Before describing Götterdämmerung, I wish to give an overview of the Ring Cycle, some facts and some reflections.....

Overview

Wagner's magnum opus, Der Ring des Nibelungen,  is a truly monumental artistic achievement, one about which critics, authors and academics have been writing for more than a century. Indeed,  even the various productions, singers and directors have been the subject of study and of countless books.

Wagner wrote both the libretto and the music. The libretto is based on Norse sagas and the German epic Nibelungenlied. It took him 26 years to complete. Not only that, Wagner in fact designed the Bayreuth Festspielhaus specifically for The Ring. Its construction was funded by King Ludwig, who also supplied a real, live horse to play Grane in the premiere in 1876. Thus the birth of the annual Bayreuth Festival, which continues to this day, 140 years later. Take that, Cats, Phantom and Mousetrap!  Ppffff

This is opera like no other. Indeed,  Wagner called it music drama, not opera. Two techniques, mainly, set it apart from the Verdis, Puccinis and Mozarts. (Don't get me wrong,  I LOVE their works.) The first is through-composition. This means that there's no repetition in the music. Each new section is entirely new. In the arias and choruses of the other great men of opera, repetition is what makes them so memorable.  The Ring avoids this. Second is sprechgesang. This is a music-dramatic ideology in which the melody and rhythm of the vocal line should imitate closely ordinary spoken inflections. This contrasts with creating a pleasing melody and then forcing the words into it.  Wagner was in favour of sprechgesang.  Those others preferred the melodious approach (although all employ sprechgesang in the recitativ, that is, the parts that aren't aria, duet, trio or chorus, i.e. the parts that everyone forgets how to sing). (This ideology is taken much further in the first half of the 20th century by the likes of Schönberg, Webern and Berg.)

Because of these features, much of the music, wonderful as it is, washes over me like slow rapids down a river. The parts that stand out, the parts that I love, are:
1.    the octet sung to the famous Ride of the Valkyries accompaniment in Act Three of Die Walkure;
2.    the part with hammer and anvil in Act One of Siegfried; 
3.    the exquisite birdsong in Act Two of Siegfried;
4.    the ethereal music that accompanies Brünnhilde's awakening in Act Three;
5.    the scene in which Siegfried dies in Götterdämmerung;
6.    the music associated with Siegfried and Valhalla.

Taken as a whole, most of the music throughout is in the lower registers.  Many of the characters are male, and many of them are bass or baritone or bass baritone.  The masculine brass section of the orchestra is very busy throughout, with more than normal use of the big (deep) tubes.

So how does Wagner tie it all together?  He uses leitmotivs. Hundreds of them. He is not the first composer to use them, but their use in The Ring is thorough, throughout and thoughtfully brilliant. A leitmotiv is a short musical theme, usually from four to perhaps 20 bars in length, that is associated with a character,  a prop, a setting or an event. Each character in The Ring has his own. There is a leitmotiv for Valhalla, for Nothung, for Grane, and the list goes on. Each time that element appears in the libretto, the leitmotiv sounds, in its original form or in some variation that is nevertheless instantly recognizable.  I have two recordings of The Ring. Each one contains 16 hours of music. There is no way I remember it all. However,  when it comes onto my stereo randomly,  I instantly know it's The Ring.

The music is so perfectly matched to the action I sometimes forget the actors are singing and that there is any musical accompaniment. 

Here in Melbourne, I learn some things, and am told some lovely anecdotes. I get chatting with my neighbours in the back row. Brian tells me that Australia is home to the world's best opera house. The exterior is in Sydney while the interior is in Melbourne. He says this in response to my report that I had been unimpressed with the interior in Sydney. Between Brian and me sits a different patron each day, someone who's come for only a single performance. For Die Walküre, that patron is indeed a chorister who will perform in Götterdämmerung on Monday. (I'm overjoyed to hear that the final opera has a chorus, though it's fleeting,  I'm warned.) He is here in support of his girlfriend who is making her professional debut as one of the Valkyrie sisters, the first one to sing on the descending swings. He says that many performing artists hate putting on shows in Sydney because the acoustics are bad, the stage is cramped,  and the wings barely exist. He also says that each of the current operas employs progressively more instrumentalists. Das Rheingold has an orchestra of about 100 players,  and I think he says Götterdämmerung will employ 125!

The technical issues that extend our intervals on Wednesday are, I am told, quite severe. During the dress rehearsal,  one of the actors gets trapped on a swing, high in the air. Some of the automations don't work. The place where Brünnhilde is put to sleep is meant to rise out of the centre of the stage. It doesn't.  Instead she lies level with the burning ring of fire, slightly obscured from the audience.  John and Joyce (more about them later) add that their son works at the opera house. He confirms that the issues are of such a nature, normal protocol dictates that the show be cancelled and the audience sent home. The only reason Opera Australia doesn't do that is because this is The Ring!

On to my own personal technical issues. When I booked these tickets, flights and hotels, I did it very carefully.  I wanted to limit as much as possible the days I'd take off work. Cathay Pacific flies out of Melbourne at 00:50 each day. Götterdämmerung is set to start at 16:00. The recordings on my computer last around 4 1/2 hrs. Add two 30-minute intervals. I should be out of the theatre in plenty of time. Except that just before leaving Taiwan, Opera Australia sends an update, announcing that the first interval is 90 minutes! and the second 40 minutes. I'll get out the theatre at 10:40. Mild panic sets in. No worries,  I'll figure it out.

I go to pick up my tickets on Monday morning.  They're not at the theatre; Opera Australia still has them. I explain my situation. The lady is fantastically helpful.  She tells me to book an Uber cab in advance, leave my luggage at the cloakroom,  and dash out the second the show ends. She even suggests I exit through stage door, and leads me that way, a crutch in each hand. There the receptionist warns that Uber drivers can never find the exit, so they advise me to leave from the patrons' exit.

I go across the road to Opera Australia to pick up my tickets.  The receptionist there tells me the show will end at 10:45. She says to change my  flight.  I try, with every ounce of hope and determination, but there is no helping it. Short of purchasing a ticket on a different airline, there is nothing to be done. On Wednesday I approach the cloakroom attendant and explain. He says I certainly can leave my luggage there and pick it up after.

I decide that in order to feel comfortable about the Uber ride, I need to test the service first. I install the app on my phone and determine to use them to take me to Tante Erna's on Friday. (In the end I don't use Uber...) I also introduce myself to Joyce and John, who are sitting at the end of my row. I ask could we exchange seats for the final act on Monday? They agree.

During Wednesday's elongated intervals, the Götterdämmerung chorister tries to sooth me by pointing out that the opera will be done by 11PM.  What?! I decide on Thursday morning to shelve all the stress and panic about missing the last act. I book a new flight with budget Air Asia,  get a room inside someone's Southbank home (a stone's throw from the theatre) on AirBnB (cheaper), cancel my original Cathay Pacific and request a refund. Damn it. I feel both relieved and poor....

Worries put to rest, it's back to the here-and-now.  Each interval, I watch the patrons. I love the Western style of enjoying the theatre.  A glass of wine before and another if the interval is long enough.  I don't partake for fear of needing to wee before the curtain. Later when I sit down and smell said alcohol on the breaths of my neighbors,  I am no longer so supportive of the habit. 

Dritter Tag: Götterdämmerung

Prologue - The curtain rises to reveal a large canvas hanging almost the height of the stage, and almost as wide. It hangs only as far back as the wall in Mime & Siegfried's dwelling. It cascades onto the stage. At its lower end, there are two parts, one that hangs behind three female characters, the other held by the characters in front of themselves. The canvas is like a giant upside down bib, with the characters standing in the empty neck of it. On the canvas is a painting of nature: mountains, trees, blue-pink sky. The painting is also upside down.  The three characters are the Norns, daughters of Erda, dressed as milk maids of 100 years ago. They're sewing the canvas. They sing about the state of affairs. One reminisces,  then passes the thread (of the conversation) to the next, and so on. Then they lament about what will be, similarly taking turns to express the dire trouble the world is in.  Once Wotan visited them to gain wisdom. At that time, he'd taken strips off the world ash tree to make his sceptre. Recently, he sent his gods to chop down the world ash. Its logs are piled up for firewood in Valhalla. The Norns despair. The huge canvas is suddenly released from its supports and crumples to the ground. Exit the maidens.

Behind is a large A-framed structure, like the frame of a barn. It reminds me of the shack at the start of Die Walkure, but this one is much larger. There are four sets of pillars and rafters affixed to each with beams, but no walls. The whole thing stands on a raised floor. It revolves atop the stage floor. There is a mattress on the floor with someone on it. No, some bodies. When the revolving stops, only the front pillars and rafters are lit. The color makes it look wooden. Brünnhilde is dressed in a white autumn nightie. (I say autumn because it's not light, but it is sleeveless.) Siegfried is with her.  They sing of their mutual love and affection, (I am the eagle, you're the wind, etc.) Brünnhilde wishes she didn't have to stay alone in her fire-protected home. But she understands that her hero needs to go out and do great deeds. Siegfried gives Brünnhilde his ring, and then he goes off. We hear his leitmotiv. Enter our fish-soldier silent chorus. They fill the 'barn'. As Brünnhilde's shoulders drop, so do theirs.  As the leitmotiv becomes fainter and fainter, Brünnhilde exits. The silent chorus dances in couples, including gay pairings, though the actors seem reticent and uncomfortable . The dance is nothing special.  Their moves are not unlike my (laughable) rudimentary choreography for elementary students. Near the end, four couples of real ballroom dancers step closer to the orchestra pit and show their skills. 

Unseen behind the dancing, voiceless chorus, the set has changed unnoticed.

The music blends seamlessly into...

Act One - We are in Gunther's castle, which is on the banks of a river. He is King of the Gibichungs. A treadmill stands on the left, a step machine on the right.  There are two modern, thin, transparent plastic armchairs, one in front of the treadmill, the other in front of the step machine. To the right stands a wooden water shelf with steel legs. The whole place looks like it was designed by an interior designer, all steel and minimalist, where everything fits but the personality of the inhabitants is nowhere to be seen. The only contrast is that two pieces of classic art have been lowered at the back. Now all the pillars and rafters are lit, and they shine silver. Hagen, Gunther's half brother, is dressed like a butler or hotel bellboy.  Gunther and his sister Gutrune are dressed in white gym clothes. Hagen catches them up on the Ring, Tarnhelm etc. Gunther worries about his popularity. Hagen suggests both he and Gutrune should marry to raise their approval rating. 

Hagen suggests that Brünnhilde is just the right sort of distinguished maiden for Gunther.  Gunther wants to know how they could wed, since she's already married. Hagen recommends using a potion to trick Siegfried into falling in love with Gutrune. (A Midsummer Night's Dream,  anyone?) We hear Siegfried's leitmotiv. Gunther changes on stage. He removes his gym threads, all the way down to tighty whiteys.... well, tighty blueys.  Two valets help him to don his more regal suit. Now he looks like a pilot. Gutrune goes off stage to change into an orange ensemble. Siegfried arrives on a boat. He delivers an ultimatum: to fight or to befriend the king and his court. After some getting-to-know-you-s, Siegfried and Gunther swear a blood oath of allegiance: brothers they are now. Gutrune gives Siegfried a celebratory drink, which is in fact her magical potion. Instantly,  our hero falls in love with her. Exit all except Hagen, who sits in a chair front centre. He is lit. The rest of the stage darkens. So too does the music; the tuba has much to say.  We can just make out stage hands changing the set as Hagen, in his menacing bass, reveals his true intent: capturing the ring!

The stage revolves slowly, ominously. It is the first time I've seen it go anticlockwise.  Brünnhilde lies on her mattress. She hears the Valkyrie leitmotiv. Enter one of her sisters, dressed as Brünnhilde was in Die Walküre, like a lesbian potter. The sister brings grievous news. She repeats what the Norns divulged at the start, that Wotan has had the world ash chopped down and splintered for firewood.  She adds that Wotan called a gathering of all the gods, but that he is just sitting, silent. Valhalla is on edge, tense, expectant and afraid. The sister begs Brünnhilde to return the ring to the Rhinemaidens. Brünnhilde refuses, declaring that the ring signifies Siegfried's love. Exit the sister.

We hear Siegfried's leitmotiv. It's played a few times. The pillars and rafters look like they're reflecting an angry sunset, but then they turn bloodred, signifying that something dangerous has passed through the ring of fire. Siegfried arrives looking like Gunther. (He has used the Tarnhelm to disguise himself. It is in fact the same actor who plays Siegfried,  but his ginger locks have been dyed black - a wig,  I guess because later he is ginger again - and he wears Gunther's regal uniform. This is the only time we see Siegfried in anything other than his brown shoes and pants and maroon sweater- like T-shirt.) As "Gunther",  he claims Brünnhilde for himself. She hides and then fights, but ultimately loses. Gunther-Siegfried wrests the ring from her. 

Lights out

Act Two - The A-frame has been covered by an off white marble colored tent. There are eight cottage windows on each of the long sides and six on the short sides. Each window has three panes across and four up. At the top of each window is a semi circle with three pie-slice panes. As it revolves, all sides are closed. From within, a dim light warms the ambiance. It seems like there's someone inside, slightly off centre? When it ceases moving, Hagen sits outside it on the same modern transparent plastic chair that was in Gunther's gym. Alberich creeps all the way across the stage from right to left, hands like those of a witch, gnarled fingers pointing. He returns to where Hagen sits, and it is revealed that he is Hagen's father! He caresses Hagen creepily, demanding his help to recapture the ring. Hagen swears to gain it for him. Exit Alberich.

Enter Gutrune, dressed in a white dress, or is it a bathrobe? Soon Siegfried arrives back, faster than the others because he was transported by the helm. (I have forgotten that  the helm has this Dorothy-not-in-Kansas power.) He announces his success, and it's settled: they will be wed. Exit Siegfried and Gutrune. Hagen hails the neighborhood men. They scurry in from the back, left and right, and also along the aisles beside the audience,  left and right. They bring weapons (guns). They wear black suits with white shirts and bowties. Has Gunther been attacked? sings the first chorus of the Ring Cycle! (Aahhh, chorus. I've been yearning. ) Why the call to arms? To celebrate marriage.  The stage revolves. One 8-window side has been removed. Within the tent is a banquet hall, prepared for a feast. Women stand about in Royal Ascot frocks and hats. All table cloths hang all the way to the floor.  Bouquets adorn the tables. From the top part of the A ceiling hang four lamps with spherical covers: from the front red, pink, green, beige. The chorus enters the banquet hall, each man taking a lady's arm. They continue singing, but the ladies don't join in. The music has a celebratory tone. 

Enter Gunther and Brünnhilde from the left. She's stiff. She wears no veil, and the train of her wedding dress is very short.  From the right enter Siegfried and Gutrune. She is wearing a veil, and her dress has a longer, more appropriate train. With her enter four bridesmaids, two tall, two slightly shorter. They stand in pink heels and wear very short pink frocks. As Hagen makes announcements and introduces the couples to the gathered crowd, Brünnhilde won't toe the line. She sees the ring on Siegfried's finger. Shocked,  she accuses him of betrayal. She enters the banquet hall, throws some tables about. The wedding cake goes flying. The guests gasp. The stage revolves.  When the open side of the hall is hidden, all but Gunther, Hagen and Brünnhilde exit unnoticed. 

The remaining trio argue about who has been betrayed and who is guilty of betrayal. Eventually all agree Siegfried must die. Brünnhilde declares that her magic protects Siegfried  from attack, but she confesses, because she knew he'd never walk away from someone in need nor shy away from a fight, she'd not extended the protection to his back. They further agree that to protect Gutrune, they'll kill him during the hunt and blame it on a wild boar. Brünnhilde stands on the left, Gunther on the right and Hagen in the centre. Facing the audience,  they deliver a powerful trio. Gunther and Brünnhilde call on the gods for justice. Hagen calls on Alberich to reclaim his rightful place as lord of Nibelheim. The guests return. In the end, the two brides and the two grooms cut the cake together, four hands on the knife. Lights out.

Act Three - The tent over the A-frame is gone. We now see its real material of construction: steel or steel alloy. The Rhinemaidens are there. They are dejected and comical in their display of it. One kicks her toes into the ground. Another picks at her headdress, plucking it with her hand in a fashion that mimics a chicken pecking at seeds. When she rises to walk across the stage, she has one shoe on and one shoe off. The third bashes her head against a pillar. Enter Siegfried.  The maidens become hopeful. They try flattery to convince Siegfried to return the ring to them. When that doesn't work, they threaten, warning him of the curse on the ring. He is unmoved.

The next day, the gentlemen go hunting. Siegfried,  Hagen and Gunther arrive first and chit-chat. Next, the choristers enter.  They're dressed as before, but sans jackets and bowties. One of them wheels in a shopping cart of beer. Some carry guns. Three sheets of paper with drawings of animals drop from the ceiling; they have lines and circles, evidently intended for target practice. Some men take aim. The guns really crack and the targets are genuinely hit, but with pellets, I guess, though I'm certain I saw a flash of igniting gunpowder. Siegfried describes his upbringing,  and the events of the previous opera. When he tells of the songbird, the melody, now sung by his tenor voice, is identical to that sung by the soprano bird-dancer-singer from the previous opera. It's a fast arpeggioed passage, difficult for any singer, yet both glide through it with grace to spare. Hagen feigns shock that Siegfried was previously betrothed,  yet swore an oath on Hagen's weapon. (Was this for blood-brotherhood with Gunther or marriage to Gutrune?) Hagen kills him. We hear the same ethereal music as Brünnhilde's awakening, then angry brass. Siegfried hails Brünnhilde with his last (dramatically eeeelongated) breath. Choristers pick Siegfried up from where he lies slain, front of stage, just right of centre. They carry him to centre stage, where they "embalm" him, erect.

Now we're back at the castle. Brünnhilde slowly, very slowly passes across the back of the stage,  from right to left. She's wearing a long white charity gala dress; it hangs to the ground.  Gutrune enters from front right. She asks after her husband,  Siegfried. She's had bad dreams. Shortly she sees his corpse, lets out her first tortured  scream. She collapses on the floor, weeping. A group of extras lays flowers in a circle around Siegfried's body. Hagen at first tells Gutrune that he was killed by a boar. He soon admits the truth. Hagen and Gunther exchange heated words before advisor pushes king to the ground. Later, Hagen shoots Gunther dead. Gutrune's second gut wrenching shriek fills the room. Brünnhilde is torn and tortured.  She's lost her man, but he has atoned for his betrayal. 

Brünnhilde compares Gutrune's tears to children crying over spilled milk. "You stole my husband in the first place." She hails the Rhinemaidens and promises to return the ring to them. A fire creeps up the front and back pillars and rafters, and along all connecting beams. Brünnhilde steps into the circle of flowers laid by the silent masses. She picks a bunch up and ignites it, burning herself together with her slain lover. Behind them, a curtain rises to reveal the steps of Valhalla as we saw at the end of Das Rheingold. Upon them sit all the extras who've been fish, soldiers, miners, choristers, dancers. There are way more than I thought. These are the last words from the synopsis handed out before the show: "( Brünnhilde) throws a torch onto the pyre and throws herself into the flames. As the river overflows its banks, and the Gibichung hall is consumed, the Rhinemaidens,  dragging Hagen to a watery grave, regain their gold. Flames engulf Valhalla, leaving a human world redeemed by love."

The audience again starts applauding before the orchestra is silent. I try to wait, but I fail. Extras take a bow, minor characters next. When the main characters take theirs, we're all on our feet. Over and over.  The conductor gets deafening  whoops.  Then something happens I've never seen. The entire orchestra comes to the stage. My arms hurt.

It's done !